A photo of us on campus in St. Louis

Friday, July 27, 2007

The end of an ulpan

Today was the final day of my 6-week Biblical Hebrew ulpan and it was very sad to say goodbye to Kibbutz Tzuba and to my fellow students (and teachers). I've had a great experience here and would highly recommend this school to anyone who really wants to acquire fluency in reading the Hebrew bible. We will spend the next week taking day trips around Israel from Jerusalem then fly back to Richmond on Monday the 6th.

I think one of the strangest things about being here has been how disconnected I have been with everyone back in the US. Being busy usually makes staying in touch difficult but it's been so much harder to stay in touch here with the added stresses of travel and internet problems (my connection is sort of working now). We're all looking forward to getting "home" soon. Shabbat shalom.

Friday, July 20, 2007

We finally have Internet...but now the computer isn't working

I am writing this from an internet kiosk at the hotel across the street from our apt in Jerusalem. I hope to have the problem fixed before I return to the kibbutz for class Monday morning, but for now we still have very limited e-mail access. I thought Peru was supposed to be the third world part of our adventures. Once we're back on I'll get our latest photos posted. Rae and the kids came with my class on our trip to the north (Megido, Jezreel, Sea of Galilee, Hatzor, Dan, Golan Heights, Mt. Gilboa, Bet Shean). Because we're studying Hebrew we visited sites corresponding to our Old Testament readings (Solomon's fortified cities, Naboth's Vineyard, the death of Jezebel, Jeraboam's gold calves, the death of Saul, Gideon). The best thing about the field trips has been how they have impressed the geography of the Bible on my mind. Other than the geography there is really not much to see here from the days of the Judges and Kings of Israel. It is all buried under more than 3000 yrs of Persian, Greek, Roman, Crusader, and Turkish history. This is interesting in itself but not really why we came here.

Sunday, July 15, 2007

Internet Connection at the Kibbutz is Still Difficult

We're saying good-bye to Tel Aviv where the kids and I have spent weeks 1,2, and 4. We've had a great time at the beach and the pool as well as seeing a bit of the city: Joppa, playgrounds, architecture, and the Eretz Israel Museum, a fantastic campus of exhibits including outdoor trails, hands-on historical recreations, and great indoor museums...kind of like Jamestown.

We've had terrific food from Argentinian pizza to schnitzel and falafel, and splendid accomodations, thanks to our very generous and hospitable hosts. Along the way, I'm pretty sure we've entertained a few folks as well. Four kids is an unusual sight in any city, whether it's New York, Lima, or Tel Aviv. And with all our chattering in English and antics, we've drawn plenty of stares ("Get up, go, go, this is our stop! Everyone off the bus--now!") As much as the kids miss their cousins and friends, I have to say they've been great companions for each other, sometimes completely losing themselves in their own world, whether it's hide and seek, building sand castles, this-jungle-gym-is-a-pirate-ship, or I'm-driving-this-"taxi"-and-you're-hijacking/fleeing-robbers. I have been able to do some reading and thinking in the meantime.

Week 3 in Haifa was lovely. We saw the splendid Bahai terraced gardens, where I turned the camera over to the girls. We went to the zoo--forgot to bring the camera--and the Museum of Japanese Art--CF card was full and battery low. Sorry. Elijah's cave, impromptu hiking, and the Maritime Museum were also covered. Here we learned how to take the city bus, an important skill we tried out when we returned to Tel Aviv.

We've learned a few things about ourselves and others. For starters, I don't really care for the public beach--everyone running around in their underwear gets old day after day. Also, until this morning, the boys thought that the kibbutz was the "Kibbuts'," someone else's house that we were going to visit, like the Longs' or the Browns'. We've met plenty of friendly, helpful people, seen more than a few loud, public arguments or scoldings, been scolded ourselves by artists and craftsmen who don't want us to watch them work or handle their work even though it's for sale and they're exibiting at a craft show, and been told by cab drivers that the address we're requesting is not an actual residence or not where we live.

One driver stuffed the five of us into the back seat and took another passenger in the front and then proceeded to insist that the address and name of the building I requested were not the same place. Which did I want--the address or the named building? I argued a little, since I had already lived at the address and building for two weeks, then settled on the building name when I realized he wasn't going to listen to me. I thought I got him back by paying him the grossly overcharged fare of $10 entirely in coins (over 30 of them--all that I had), but then realized that he got the last word by dropping me off at the mall entrance to my building, refusing to understand that with a large suitcase and four kids with backpacks, I was not headed shopping, but instead wanted the residential entrance to the apartments on the other side of the building.

Well, we'll be at the kibbutz with Charlie for a couple of days this week, joining his class field trip to Galilee for three days and two nights. That's week 5. Week 6 we'll be staying in an apartment in Jerusalem while Charlie has his last week of classes. Then week 7, we'll sightsee together before returning to the States. Sounds like a plan. Or something!

Sunday, July 8, 2007

Greetings from Haifa

I've not had internet access for two weeks due to a problem with the network at the kibbutz and Rae hasn't had a computer for the past week in Haifa. Rae and the kids have been in Haifa since last Sunday and this afternoon I'll move them back to Tel Aviv for one more week. They'll then be coming to Kibbutz Tzuba for a few days and will go with me on my class field trip to Galilee. Then they'll be spending the next week or so in an apt in Jerusalem. My Hebrew class is going well and I'm surprised how much Biblical Hebrew overlaps with modern Hebrew. I'm actually able to communicate with people here. I'm still not able to hear much out of my right ear but I'll be seeing an ENT this week in Jerusalem. It looks like I have a growth inside my ear and they need to figure out what exactly it is. I've updated our map a bit for those interested, and I've posted the rest of our June photos and the beginning of our July photos on the left hand side of this blog. Sorry for our lack of email contacts. We'll try to catch up soon.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Week Two In Israel--Homesick??

The second week...ah, internet is down at the kibbutz so Charlie can't post the photos or give you his update. I'll tell you that he is loving his course and learning a lot while trying to figure out why he hasn't been able to hear out of one of his ears ever since we've arrived. Our doctor friend Jason, who is taking the class and rooming with Charlie, thinks that Charlie has a growth in his ear that he only noticed after having shoved an earplug in there for the plane flight, thus packing a bunch of earwax around the growth. Yes, I know, try not to think about it too much--poor Jason, he committed himself to helping Charlie find ear drops for wax removal and ended up digging around in there with a flashlight and crab pick. We are not eating crabs again for a while and are looking for an ENT specialist. We'd appreciate your prayers.

The kids and I have wandered off the beach and out of the pool this week to explore the city a little. At Shalom Tower we enjoyed two gorgeous huge mosaics, one celebrating life in Tel Aviv and the other the history of the city, and learned about the architectural history of Tel Aviv through old photographs, a model of the city, and a documentary subtitled in English (Paul: "I can't read that fast.") The documentary had a lot of old grainy footage from the twenties and thirties. This led to comments like, "Is that lightning?" "Is it raining?" from Thomas and "Why are people walking so fast?" from Elise. We've also been to two parks and found an open air market close by. There are lots of stray cats.

Tuesdays and Thursdays the market also hosts an arts and crafts fair, so today we saw plenty of pottery, jewelry, toys, and other creative and cheerful handcrafts including ostrich egg luminaries and sculptures made from flatware. As much as we were loving the artists' tables, especially watching the blown glass and wire sculpture taking shape before our eyes, the day was hot and humid and all of us were teetering on the brink of dehydration and heat-induced fatigue. I plopped the kids down in the first restaurant that had English on its sign, thankful that it said "pizza," which one of the kids had been rooting for, and took MasterCard, as we had spent all our cash at the market. I was surprised to hear the owner speaking Spanish as she waited on one of the other tables. When she seated us we thanked her in Spanish and proceeded to speak in Spanish with her and her husband. They are from Argentina and used some different words with a different accent, but mostly we understood each other. Madeleine and Elise were delighted to speak Spanish again and listen to the Spanish songs that were in the background. I have been studying Spanish a little bit, and have known that we all miss Peru, but I surprised myself by totally choking up with feelings of longing and sadness as I attempted to order my pizza! The only way I kept the tears back was by realizing that the next table was watching and listening to my bad accent while the owner was straining to understand me. Also, I didn't want to unnerve or embarrass the children, but I could have really wept, especially when Peter Gabriel's "Don't Give Up" came on. (The tears dried when Joan Osborne's "One of Us" came on and one of the kids asked if it might be a Christian praise song.) Is this homesickness? I don't feel scared or uncomfortable about being in Israel, but having Spanish on my tongue just brought on a rush of the good, comforting, and familiar. I certainly don't have a home in Peru, but then I don't have a home anywhere right now.

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Greetings from Kibbutz Tzuba

While Rae and the kids are enjoying the beaches of Tel Aviv, I am tucked away in the Judean hills here at Kibbutz Tzuba studying Hebrew. An old college friend (Jason Dausman) has met me here from Afghanistan to take the class with me. We are in class for 4 hours each morning with all instruction and discussion in Biblical Hebrew and then we spend the afternoon studying and listening to recordings. There are people here from all over the world taking the class with us and I was surprised that some of them are BibleWorks users that I already know via email (including the guy from the Czech Republic). Kibbutz Tzuba sits on top of a hill just a few miles west of Jerusalem. The ruins of a crusader fortress looks down on us from an adjacent hill. We eat in the kibbutz dinning hall with the kibbutz residents and other guests. We are the only non-Jews here. It is very interesting but so far studying hasn't left us much time to explore. Tomorrow we will go on our first field trip to the Dead Sea and Qumran. I am really looking forward to that but even more I'm looking forward to seeing Rae and the kids this weekend in Tel Aviv. I missed the last hour of my first class because I came down with a fever. I went back to my room and slept for the next 16 hours and woke up feeling much better. Our number one assignment each day is to get 8 hours of sleep, so I guess I'm actually ahead of the class now. I miss you all.

Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Jet Lag

You know your family's got jet lag when you're giving your kids Coke with their 10:30 AM breakfast.
You know they're jet-lagged when you have to hurry up and sneak into bed at 1:30AM, hoping to get to sleep before they wake up.
You know your kids are more jet-lagged than you are when you let them call your parents at 2AM, because you're ready to go to bed and they've woken up and are ready to talk.

Well, we've been in Israel 3 and 1/3 days and are feeling pretty settled in. Still a little groggy in the mornings, and actually I have fallen asleep every afternoon for a bit, even while watching the kids at the beach and the pool! (there was a lifeguard and I made sure little people were out of the water) We've been to the beach twice, the pool once, the grocery store twice, and fast food once. Perfect weather for eating on the balcony!

Since I don't know any Hebrew and can't read the script, I am enjoying relative ignorance and anonymity. My observations of cultural differences thus far (gathered at the beach and the little mall downstairs): more people here smoke, more people wear Crocs, a lot of people bring dogs to the beach, indignation is an acceptable form of communication, and it is also acceptable for men to go swimming in bikini brief underwear or boxers. They go swimming in Speedos and swim trunks, too, but the difference is pretty noticeable.

I know there's much more to see and learn about the culture, the city, and the people. The history and archeology are enormous. But for this week I am very content with anonymity and time with my kids. Our host family has many great photos of their adult children throughout the apartment. The last time I saw the youngest of these kids he was in elementary school, now he's just returned from eight months in Iraq with the Marines. So I've just been looking at my own children and wondering who they will grow up to be and how fast the time will go by...

Thursday, June 14, 2007

Update from Virginia

We have had a great two weeks visiting friends and family here in VA and we leave Richmond for Tel Aviv tomorrow afternoon. (In addition to packing, Rae is helping her sister-in-law here in Richmond who just had a baby boy at 3 this morning.)

I have posted the last of our Peru photos in the May album (see link on the left) and created a new album which contains a few of our June photos thus far. I love maps so here's the start of a map of our Israeli Odyssey. Stay tuned for news and photos from Israel...

I have one image I really must share from months past while we were in Peru. What you see below is a loving letter Thomas wrote to his ama (Chinese for grandma). He's accustomed to receiving money every year in a birthday card from his ama and this year because we were in Peru she couldn't send it. Apparently we forgot to explain this to Thomas. So when the time came to write ama, he got right to what was on his mind. I think I'll have him write my fundraising letters for me.